A month in Budapest : a pleasant surprise

A month in Budapest : a pleasant surprise

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This is it. October 1, 2022 has finally arrived and we are ready to leave. I take the plane from Orly and arrive in the night in the Hungarian capital. 

Really a good surprise?

In the taxi on the way to the airbnb, I ask the driver if he knows the area he’s dropping me off in. At first, he simply says “yes”. I then ask him if he speaks English, to which he says yes. Well, he’s not very talkative but that’s his right.

A minute later, I hear him say “Actually, I was going to ask you what you were going to do there and if you already knew people. It’s one of the most dangerous areas of Budapest, you don’t want to be alone, especially at night, it’s a really poor area”. Ah, thank you sir.

Note to my future self: always do some research on the area before booking an airbnb.

In the end, it’s true that the streets in our neighbourhood were not lit at night but apart from that, we didn’t feel unsafe at all. 

A lively city

Pedestrian street
Váci Street, Pest side.

Budapest turned out to be a city full of diversity, in all aspects, and that was the first good surprise for me. Lots of people from different countries and continents, diversity in the architecture, in the choice of cafes, bars and restaurants.

Speaking of bars, Budapest is also known for its ruin bars, which are, as the name suggests, located in abandoned buildings. They are decorated with graffiti and plants. These bars are frequented by a generally international clientele but also by people of all ages and backgrounds, which makes the experience really enjoyable and unique. 
In the first ruin bar we visited, one of the rooms contained an unlikely sight: a painter was painting semi-nude models. 

The streets are full of surprises too, and it is not unusual to come across a concert or other artistic performance there.

A very practical transport system

Another very good surprise in Budapest was the transport system. 

Yellow retro tram
Tram line in Budapest

First of all, the transport lines themselves are well laid out, which means that transport is efficient and it is always quicker to get around by public transport than by foot. This may seem obvious, but it is not the case in all cities.

We opted for a one month pass which cost us 9500 forints each, or about 23€. This pass gives unlimited access to all public transport in Budapest: bus, tram, metro. We bought it in a metro station on a machine but it is apparently also possible to get these tickets on the BudapestGO mobile application. More info here

The famous Budapest baths.

You can’t come to Budapest without visiting one of the capital’s famous baths. There are several, some of which have been better renovated than others.

Gellert hotel seen from far
Picture from Elijah G on Unsplash, Gellert Hotel

We went to the Gellert Baths, next to the hotel of the same name, on a Saturday in October.

It is true that the building is grandiose, in the entrance the floor is covered with mosaics, the ceilings are very high and statues adorn the walls. It is a special atmosphere that is worth the detour! You can see the entrance without paying because access to the baths is by electronic bracelets. 

Inside, the floors and walls are covered with mosaics. 
The establishment has 10 indoor pools and 2 outdoor pools heated between 26 and 40 degrees. Everyone can find their groove: medical pools, indoor swimming pool, wave pool and an outdoor thermal bath. There are also saunas, steam rooms and massage services (the massage service is an additional service not included in the normal admission ticket).

On that day the occupancy rate was rather high and it was sometimes difficult to find a place in the baths, so be it! We ventured in and admired the beauty of the place. However, we were disappointed by the (non) cleanliness of the place. This is certainly a matter of habit. It must also be said that the place was completed just over a century ago in 1918, so yes, the showers are somewhat rusty and the tiling in the pools has lived well. The main problem was that people can come and go between the outdoor and indoor pools in flip-flops and cover the floor with mud. Not very pleasant! A slightly mixed experience.

During the weekend, an adult entry costs 10,900 Ft or 27.40€. During the week, it’s a bit cheaper: 9300 Ft or 23,40€. Tickets can be purchased online.

Venturing outside the capital

Old building made of stones by the lake shore
Balaton Lake on a day in October

We also had the opportunity to rent a car to go to the small village of Tihany, located on the shore of Lake Balaton. This lake is one of the most famous holiday destinations for Hungarians, and it is true that this area is worth a visit.
Lake Balaton is really big as it is 77 km long, and if you are a fan of hiking you will certainly find your happiness there!

The small village of Tihany is very typical and you will find a lot of lavender based products which is a local speciality.

Money wise

It is pointless to talk about the price of our airbnb in view of the current economic context: prices vary enormously from one month to another and depending on the area and the type of flat you are looking for, the budget will not be the same.

Once you have your accommodation, public transport is worth it in Budapest and is more than reasonable.
Supermarkets are cheaper than in France: expect to pay €0.77 for a litre of milk, and around €4 for a bottle of mid-range wine.
Restaurants are also cheaper: a simple restaurant costs about 8€ per person.
A cappuccino in a café will cost just under 2€.

The last word

We really enjoyed this month in Budapest! The people are really friendly and most of them speak English. Those who don’t speak English try to find a way to be understood, which is really nice.

The month of October was really sunny and favourable for walking (the fault of global warming?) and we could really enjoy our stay.
We will certainly come back as tourists as the country seems to have a lot to offer!

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